Create a stitch gage (number of stitches and rows per inch). Mine is 8.5 rows and 6.25 stitches to 1 square inch.
First determine the length of the skirt. Mine is 26 inches. Then measure from the bottom (where you want the botton to hit your leg) to the largest area of the hip. Measure from this point to the waist.
Measure the hips at the largest area and add 1 inch.
Measure the waist and add 1 inch.
Determine how big you want the bottom circumference of the skirt. Mine is 7 inches larger than the hip measurement.
Work 3 inches of lace at the bottom of the skirt. Subtract this 3 inches from the bottom to the hip measurement. Mine is 16 in. Then 16 x 8.5 = 136 rows
I want to decrease 7 inches over 136 rows. So 7 x 6.25 = 44 stitches. So I can decrease 4 stitches every 12th row 11 times. That 132 rows, then do 4 rows of stockinette stitch.
Now I want to decrease 5 more inches to the waist. Yours will be different. 5 x 6.25 = 31 stitches so make it 32, a multiple of 4. The distance from the hip to the waist is 60 rows divided by 8 (8 x 4 = 32) gives me 7.5 rows so I will decrease 4 stitches every 7th row 8 times, then do 4 rows of stockinette stitch.
But we also need a casing for either elastic or draw string. So I’ll do 9 more rows of Stockinette Stitch (1+ inch) to turn down for the casing.
Note: the decreases are done on either side of the skirt. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and at the half way point. At the beginning of the round k2, Decrease 1 stitch, then two stitches before the halfway stitch marker decrease 1 stitch k4 decrease 1, two stitches before the end of the round decrease 1 stitch. A total of 4 stitches decreased in one round. Use left and right leaning decreases to either lean in toward the stitch marker or to lean out from the stitch marker.
Check back on my progress. This will be a 6 to 8 week project, I hope.
